The Octagon, The Grace and The Strength.

Amongst the pieces we came through, certainly there are prevalent and fine watches with significant aesthetics and value. There is perhaps the only one that rivalled and influenced the entire storm during the quartz crisis and predominantly changed how wristwatches are designed and worn today. Unprecedented case hierarchy, exposed screws, integrated bracelet and one of the most elusive dial in the market. Strong-willed and instantly recognizable, the Royal Oak is in my opinion simply one of the best wristwatches you can acquire throughout a discerned collectors’ journey. I have owned Royal Oaks and the wrist presence is unmistakably striking and powerful.

Although the birth of the Royal Oak was technically a coincidence from Genta’s sketches upon a vintage diving helmet and presented within 24 hours, the tribute to this infamous watch is perhaps a courageous attempt by Georges Golay, Managing Director of AP at the time that led the company through a major collapse and challenged the general perception of wristwatches at the time. We could guess that collectors during the era are concerned about both its outlandish design and premium retail price as a steel watch, while the majority of high horological pieces are executed in precious metal, with only the Vacheron Constantin 222 and Patek Philippe Nautilus 3700 coming to a close rivalry. As much as the publicity remains under the radar for its first issue Reference. 5402, the Royal Oak started to attract daring collectors and connoisseurs following the 1990s and 2000s, in particular the millennium towards the general public - when the Royal Oak and Quantieme Perpetual both saved Maison’s fate towards today.

The dual-time execution is an extension of the neo-vintage complication references in rose gold and although the bracelet of Royal Oak has much acclaim, the leather strap is quite a dressy and classic choice without compromising the original intent of its bold case. I personally felt that the rose gold iteration appeals more gentle and graceful with a leather strap while emphasising the geometry of its octagonal bezel. The tone-on-tone matching between dial setting and strap with placements of power-reserve, small seconds and date in subtle redness contrasts the central setting even further. 

The presence and strength is instantly recognisable on this piece for those discerned wrists.