Patek Philippe Annual Calender 5205R ‘Everose’

The Pure Complication.

Amongst the watch-collecting realm, If one watch has to be selected as the epitome of the modern complications - the Patek Philippe Annual Calendar has surely come into the rivalry as a contender. One might argue the Reference 2499 to be the legendary representative of the Maisons’ complications, in my opinion, the 5205 combines the simplicity, proportion, form and function of an annual calendar in quite the best state, for Patek Philippe among 21st Century wristwatches.

Released in 2010s, reference 5205 embarked a new direction of calendars with 10,12,2 o’clock being Day, Date and Month Window, a feature unique and unseen at the time yet juxtaposing the moon phase complication at the central portion. The Annual Calendar Complication is specifically patented in 1996 with the objective to provide a middle-ground between a simple calendar and a perpetual calendar wristwatch - the perfect accessibility for a modern journeyman without compromising the technicality of the Calibre and elegance of the architecture.

The case features an uncommon concave bezel that rounds the construction and integrates softly into the hollow lugs and back toward both date and moon-phase complications. Such extruded case construction provides a seemingly unnoticeable curvature with balance, contrast and volume in its rose gold frame. The form is somewhat reciprocal to the early Dufour’s Sonnerie, Journe’s T30 Tourbillon and Dubuis’ Hommage Perpetual Calendars, each with their ultimate pursuit in watchmaking.

While the case has already displayed much excellence, this particular example comes with an additional Calatrava Clasp in deployant buckle to strengthen its wrist presence and weight. It is no doubt that the rose gold case, lacquer-black dial and signature buckle withheld the highest attention and striking appearance.