Patek Philippe Calatrava 3820 'Breguet'

To many, the inception and development of wristwatches in horology have not escaped the legendary throne of Patek Philippe. It is challenging to put a blanket over its influences throughout two centuries which witnessed some of the most significant historical events from World War I to current ongoing affairs. 

The important handover in 1932 towards the Stern family has marked the launch of Calatrava - a watch to consolidate all essential criteria within the dress category and only to interpret the purest essence of watch-making. From the gear train to the escapement, then to the external peripheries, the revolutionary Reference. 96 has expanded wide array of material experimentations and complications to garner the best possible dress piece - one must not argue the exuding elegance of a Ref.2526 beveled case, enamel dial and sword hands, then the flat and narrow profile of the Ref.96 with hundreds of complications and small second configurations, all recently emerging a strong market appearance and striking auction records.

The legendary status is tightly held within the executive family and widely acknowledged as the most prestigious and successful among collectors and watchmakers - all referencing to the pursuit for grace and excellence and those who dare to reach. There is a lot to discuss and debate about Patek Philippe, however if we were to indicate the most prominent dress watch series across all brands, the Calatrava is possibly the most symbolic and revolutionary dress watch ever existed. Every discerned collector has got to come across a Calatrava and appreciate its simplicity and beauty inside-out. Sure, you’ve got your tool-watch which does the daily chores; a Calatrava isn’t about the flex nor the hype, it is the purity between watch-making and art. Since 1932 with the legendary reference. 96, the Calatrava somewhat is inspired by the minimalist principles of the Bauhaus and Modernist masters ie. Mies van der Rohe and Paul Kjaerholm. 

The 3820 is one of the most understated and elegant Calatrava in our opinion, dressed with Breguet numerals hand hands with further compliments from its tear-drop lugs. Such a rounded and petite construction somewhat resembled the earlier period Patek Philippe & Cie. Pocket Watches with a much slimmer and classic profile. The dial features a subtle silver and beige honed texture which differentiates from its enamel dial counterparts. The Breguet numerals are usually reserved for particular Patek timepieces which is usually scarce and limited in production number. Although one might argue that a 32mm case is too small, I personally think that there is a bespoke and elegant fitting for a Calatrava which brings us back to the old world. Dressed with a pin-buckle and complete with full set original peripheries, the pitch is smooth and the watch runs impeccably smooth. I would strongly second Mark Cho’s opinion on vintage Patek that there are so much underrated and hidden gems to try out, value is incredible as well.

With the modern Calatrava hitting 40-50K retail price easily, this particular piece in such price range is somewhat a steal to the Calatrava entry holders.